Date - 30 November, 2016
Weather - Overcast then sunny, very cold, 0 degrees, snowing in the morning
Seas - Relatively calm, a lot of brash ice and sea ice
Sunrise - 3.00am
Sunset - 11.46 pm
We were woken by the expedition leader, Solen, on the broadcast system at 6.45am. The intention was to have a 7.00 am breakfast and our group was to be the first to board the zodiacs at 8.00am. However, there was so much sea ice and brash ice surrounding the ship it would have been impossible to use the zodiacs.
As we ate breakfast the ship manoeuvred into other positions and attempted to anchor a few times in the Errera Channel. It was snowing quite heavily and the deck was covered in ice. At eight thirty the captain made the decision to leave the channel and find a more suitable spot further north. We anchored at Orne Harbour with its sheltered coves at 9.00am. Orne Harbour is located on the Graham Land coast on the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula.
As we set out in the zodiacs the sun came out so we saw the area at its best. There was a gentle wide swell which made it perfect for sitting in the zodiac. One of the expedition team members sited a blow and we were fortunate to be in one of ten zodiacs which went outside Orne Harbour to a nearby glacier front and sighted humpback whales. There were about four large whales slowly coming to the surface, blowing and going under for about two minutes at a time.
We observed them for about an hour and we would have been about 200 metres from them at some stages. Two of them flicked their tails and it was a great sight. It is times like this that I wish that I had a better camera. We were told at recap that it was the first sighting of humpbacks for the season.
Near the end of our time on the water a small part of the nearby glacier calved and we heard the crash in the water.
The surrounding high mountains with their dusting of overnight snow looked glorious as we returned to the ship sitting inside the harbour.
There was great excitement before lunch when about thirty hardy souls participated in the "Polar Plunge". This involved jumping off the ship's zodiac stairs into the frigid waters of the Antarctica. Anyone with a pre-existing medical condition was asked to see the ship's doctor before making a decision to plunge. The remainder of us were rugged up in our polar gear and overlooked the side of the boat to take photos. For safety each swimmer wore a waist belt which was tethered to one of the sailors. It was a lot of fun to watch and see how each coped with the freezing water. Some swam around for a tiny bit and some couldn't get out of the water quick enough!
During lunch the ship made its way south to Danco Island which lies in the southern end of Errera Channel. There was a lot of brash ice and growler ice so the ship moved very slowly towards its destination. This was to be our furtherest southerly point on our voyage. A landing option was not available due to ice density and along with the moving current it made the ice unpredictable.
We spent over two hours in the zodiacs slowly moving between the thick brash ice and icebergs and it was an unforgettable, beautiful afternoon. It would be the only place on earth where it is the closet to being silent. The weak afternoon sun became stronger through the afternoon and there was a long, slow swell. The amazing icebergs of every shape and size bobbed up and down. Words are inadequate to describe the beauty and the awe that we saw and felt.
We took countless photos of the scenes as well as the nesting Gentoo Penguins, some Adelie Penguins, the cormorants, and a leopard seal.
When we returned to the ship we quickly changed and returned on deck as there was blue sky, the sun was now high and the snowy landscape glistened. We didn't think our day could get any better when a pod of Orcas surfaced. Dinner was delayed whilst the Captain turned the ship around so we could all have a good view. When we went to dinner we could see the Orcas through the large dining room windows as they played on the surface. It was an unforgettable and magical day.
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