Date - 23 November, 2016
Weather - Overcast and snow
Seas - Very calm
We were woken at five o'clock at Stromness Bay to get ready for a six o'clock disembarkation. We had the express breakfast before setting off in a zodiac. The Universe gave Henk snow for his birthday. It was magical and it snowed up until lunch time. Our zodiac took us ashore to Stromness Whaling Station which is located in the central harbour on South Georgia's north coast. It was a whaling station from 1907 to 1932 and closed when the whale stocks collapsed due to over-harvesting. It was also the final destination for Shackleton's epic journey across South Georgia in search for help.
There were many fur seals lazing on the beach when we landed. We walked from the large dilapidated, rustic whaling station across the Stromness glacial plain to a waterfall at the base of the mountains where Shackleton had walked. It was a beautiful five kilometre return walk with the silent snow falling and the snow capped high mountains on three sides.
When we reached the waterfall one of the guides read from Shackleton's diary of his elation on hearing the sound of the steam whistle coming from the whaling station and knowing that they were close to be rescued. It was a special moment. As we returned to the zodiacs over the stony ground and through small streams and the snow became heavier. It was surprisingly warmer than yesterday when the sun was out.
We returned to the ship to a hearty breakfast and it was peaceful to see the snow flutter slowly down to the water as we ate. After breakfast we returned to the zodiacs for our turn to cruise around the bay and observe the wild life. The snow was quite heavy at this stage.
When we first got on the zodiac it was also hailing but it was only the size of rice and didn't last long. We witnessed about a dozen petrels on a stony beach devouring a small dead whale seal. Their beaks were drenched red as they were putting their heads into the carcass.
We had a briefing before lunch on Grytviken, an old Norwegian whaling station which was to be our destination after lunch. It was a short distance to travel from Stromness to Grytviken. Prior to leaving the ship a member of the South Georgia Heritage Trust at Grytviken came aboard and addressed the passengers on the successful rat eradication program. It was interesting how the successful project used the island's glaciers as natural barriers for the rat baiting program.
After lunch we returned to the cabin and the staff had put two balloons and a birthday card taped to the door. It was a nice surprise for Henk.
Our visit to Grytviken was brilliant. We spent about four hours visiting the site. Firstly, our zodiac took us to the cemetery on the southern side of the bay where Shackleton's graveside lies. The graveside of Frank Wild, Shackleton's "right hand man" sits to the right of Shackleton's graveside. We were given mugs with a splash of whisky or to toast Shackleton. It was very touching. It was from Grytviken that Shackleton organised a rescue mission to collect his men stranded on Elephant Island.
We then had an hour's tour of the old whaling station and it really brought to life the whaling days of Grytviken. It was a tough life in tough conditions. Men worked twelve hour days seven days a week for several seasons to make enough money to buy a farm or house. The old buildings, old boats and large rusting relics of the past are throughout the site. About eighteen people currently live at Grytviken and there is a museum, gallery, post office and gift shop. All funds raised go the the heritage trust to preserve the area.
After visiting the museum housed in the former manager's house of the whaling station Henk and I walked out along the bay to Hope Point where Shackleton's memorial overlooks the sheltered bay. We passed many elephant seals and fur seals with the young ones playing in the water.
One fur seal challenged Henk on tiny path to the Shackleton's Cross but Henk used the actions we were taught and was able to pass safely - take charge, look large and don't run!
When we returned to the boat at seven o'clock we had little time before it was the Bar-B-Que on the upper deck. The sky was clear, the temperature was very cold and we sat outside on specially set tables in our warm gear with delicious food and drinks. The mulled wine was very appropriate. We had a lovely evening with Lorraine, Chris and Graham and Cathy and Chris. All are Australians and we are enjoying each other's company.
It was a busy and fantastic day for Henk's 56th birthday.
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